Mt Pumori (7,145m)

    The easiest route is the SOUTH EAST RIDGE.

    Pumori is not easy as like other mountains, as there are technical parts. We highly recommend you travel with a Sherpa.

    You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. The first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. The second camp on the ridge is 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. The third at the altitude of 6,480m. We can summit from the third camp to the top. This route has been used by former expedition to Pumori in every year.

    The ascent starts at 5,300m. In a beautiful base camp aside a small lake. From base camp you have the most wonderful sight of Mt. Everest you can imagine, just above is Kalapathar Rock hill at 5545m.

    Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk through an easy hike terrain you will reach camp 1 or advanced base camp 5700m. After this you will face a 500m. elevation difference through a 40 to 65 degrees slopes. There is a horizontal traverse, steep and exposed to wind over narrow ridges, some 5m. We go though one ice wall and one tunnel. Pumori has many rocks (rock pitons not so necessary but fixed rope vital) and in spring there is a danger of rock falling.

    Camp 2: 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge, exposed to wind and avalanches. The next 400 meters is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, with ice walls more than 5meters and many crevasse.

    Camp 3: is on the shoulder, very windy, but from here you cans see Tibet. There is a wide ridge that takes you to a hidden summit, from where you can see Tibet. You need rope here because of many crevasses, and ice walls. Finally, at 6,850m, there is an enormous crevasse 200m large, 40m. deep, 10-20m wide. We can try to walk towards the Tibet side were the crevasses ended just before a great cliff, but on this side the snow two-layer is very difficult and there is a great danger of avalanche. On the Nepal side and you can reach the beautiful famous Pumori cliff and crossed the crevasse. After this you can summit Pumori. South-West ridge: Only few climbers tried this route, as this is one of the most difficult routes. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly 75 Degree. As this route has lots of technical, I recommend you to use the normal route for the Pumori and you & your group will reach the Top. If you need more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. In this book written by Climber of Pumori who have been summit. They sumitted by normal route.

Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel

Day 02-03: Kathmandu official work & preparation for expedition

Day 04: Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge

Day 05: Phakding to Namche lodge

Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization lodge

Day 07: Namche - Thyanboche lodge

Day 08: Thyangboche - Pheriche lodge

09: Pheriche - Lobuche lodge

Day 10: Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp - Camping

Day 11-28 Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. (Camping)

Day 29: Pumori BC - Pangboche -Lodge

Day 30: Pangboche - Namche -Lodge

Day 31: Namche - Lukla - Lodge

Day 32: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer hotel

Day 33-34: Kathmandu

Day 35: final departures

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